
Angels Everywhere
- Cynthia Piper

- Oct 20, 2025
- 2 min read
We left Triacastela in squally rain and headed on an alternative route to Samos, the home of a former Benedictine monastery. The first half hour or so was alongside a busy road, but the real danger came from intermittent squalls that had me wondering if I
looked like the flying nun. My poncho felt as if it and me was going to be lifted off the ground and deposited in the bush. We eventually left the roadside and headed into the forest tracks. It was very like walking in the NZ bush, quite beautiful. Every now and then we would come across a small hamlet of a couple of houses and a church. I was able to take photos of the inside of one of the abandoned houses. The photos are a bit dark, but you can see what the inside was like. The track was quite steep and slippery, because of the rain, in some places. We were passed by a couple from Taiwan who very kindly waited at the bottom of a particularly tricky slope, to make sure we got down safely. I was intrigued by the way they use slate as retaining walls along the forest track, and by the design of the roof ridgelines in one village. While I was waiting for Glenise a lady came out of a house and commented on my scratches from the fall I had the other day. I assured her I was okay. I was fascinated by the large pyrennese mountain dogs who guard the stock, I guess against wolves. The dogs are big beasts, but also seem quite friendly to humans. Now we are in Samos, home to a once thriving Benedictine community. The monastery is now a privately owned hostal. The reviews weren't great so we are staying in Pension Santa Rosa, a very homely pension. It is very peaceful. Tomorrow we head back towards the main route and try to avoid the hordes around Sarria. Then it will be just 100kms to go.





































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